Louise is a voracious reader. She completes two or three novels per week and devours current affairs from many diverse points of views. There seems to be no pattern to discern what topics will catch her interest. A few days ago, she came across a recipe that piqued her interest. She mentioned the recipe more than once which made it clear to me that I, too, should check it out. When she said, a couple of times, that she thought it sounded good, I took that as code that maybe I should make it.
The recipe that sounded good to her was Calabacitas, meaning little squash. This dish has been around since at least the 1600s in Mexico. Today it is a staple in Southwestern cuisine found throughout New Mexico. For those who assumed the only side dishes available in Mexican food are rice and beans, you are in for a treat.
There are hundreds, if not thousands, of recipes for Calabacitas and each recipe has an ingredient or two that is unique to it. That said, there are a few ingredients that seem to be mandatory. Those ingredients are squash (very often the squash of choice is zucchini), corn, tomatoes, peppers, and onions. The basic dish is often embellished with spices and herbs like cumin and Mexican oregano. The dish is enhanced by the addition of meat like chicken, fish, or pork. Often the dish is topped with a variety of cheeses.
Traditional Mexican cuisine is so rich in clean yet complex flavors and if you have only experienced Tex-Mex food, which is great, but have yet to dive into the traditional foods of the various regions of Mexico, you have so much more to discover.
For hundreds of years, squash has been an important ingredient in traditional Mexican cooking. The variety of squash used is determined by the region of Mexico in which the squash is grown. The most used squash is òòò½ÊÓƵœCalabacitas Italiana.òòò½ÊÓƵ We know this variety as zucchini. Two other varieties of squash deserve attention and are worth the effort to locate. The first is the òòò½ÊÓƵœcriolloòòò½ÊÓƵ squash. This is a round variety that is sweet and often stuffed. Another is Calabacitas de Maton, which is a teardrop shaped squash found in Michoacan. This squash is known for its flowers which you will find stuffed or as an ingredient in soups and quesadillas.
The simplest way to prepare squash is the traditional recipe for Calabacitas Guisadas, or stewed zucchini. Chopped onion, tomato, garlic, serrano chile, and cubed zucchini are sauteed and then covered to stew for about five minutes and then uncovered and cooked until most of the moisture is evaporated. You may have noticed that I did not include amounts of each ingredient. That is because you simply add the amounts that you like. If you like things spicy, add more serranos. If spice is not your thing, substitute the serranos with roasted poblanos that have been cut into thin strips.
A second popular recipe is Torta de Calabacitas or Zucchini Torte. For the readers who may be triggered by the absence of suggested amounts I will give a more fulsome recipe. Begin by grating four zucchinis. Using a clean kitchen towel, squeeze out as much moisture as possible.
Beat ½ pound of butter until creamy. Sift 2/3 teaspoon of double acting baking powder, ½ teaspoon of salt, with 1 cup of rice flour. With the mixer running add two eggs one at a time, while adding ½ of the flour mixture with the addition of each egg. Mix thoroughly then add the zucchini and ½ cup of sugar. Pour mixture into a buttered 1-quart baking dish or souffle pan and bake in a heated 350-degree oven for forty-five or fifty minutes until the torte is springy to the touch. The torte is finished by topping with one cup of crème fraiche that has been whipped with salt and pepper.
I notice that I have departed from my original task at hand which is to discuss the recipe that sounded so good to Louise that I felt compelled to make it for her and I am glad I did. It is delicious and I hope you will try it
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